Top 10 Poison Dangers for DOGS... 

Dogs like to eat. However, some foods can be poisonous to dogs. In fact, foods turned out to be the most frequently reported poison dangers for dogs in 2011, according to Pet Poison Helpline, a 24 hour animal-poison-control service. 
The list is based off a study of more than 10,000 cases called into Pet Poison Helpline last year.

1. Foods, specifically chocolate, the sweetener XYLITOL, and grapes and raisins
2. Instecticides, including sprays, bait stations, as well as spot-on flea and tick treatments
3. Rodenticides (mouse and rat poison)
4. Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS) for humans, such as ibuprofen and naproxen
5. Household cleaners, such as sprays, detergents and polishes
6. Antidepressant human drugs, such as PROZAC, PAXIL, CELEXA, EFFEXOR
7. Fertilizers, including bone meal, blood meal and iron-based products
8. Acetaminophen human drugs, such as TYLENOL an d cold medications
9. Amphetamine human drugs, such as ADDERALL and CONCERTA (medications that are used to treat attention deficit disorder and attention deicit hyperactivity disorder)
10. Veterinary pain relievers, specifically COX-2 inhibitors like RIMADYL, DERMAXX, PREVICOX

A description of each item listed can be found on Pet Poison Helpline's website (

August facebook offer... 

"Like" our page on facebook and recieve a free Pawdi-cure for you pet! Space is limited. Call ahead to schedule an appointment. 510.653.1691 (Offer good til August 31, 2011)

Top 10 tips for adopting a dog... 

 Have you been dreaming of getting a dog? Or adding another one to your brood? October is "Adopt-A-Dog" month, and with millions of animals being surrendered each year, shelters and rescue groups are filled with dogs of all ages, sizes and breeds in need of loving homes. In fact, the Humane Society of the United States estimates that 25 percent of dogs in shelters are purebreds. 
"It’s become sort of chic to have an adopted dog, which is great for shelter dogs," says Kim Saunders, vice president of shelter outreach at and author of The Adopted Dog Bible: Your One-Stop Resource for Choosing, Training, and Caring for Your Sheltered or Rescued Dog. Since 1995, has helped place more than 13 million dogs in their "forever" homes.
"Adopting a shelter dog is not just the right thing to do, there's something about the bond that's created between the dog that was once unwanted and you," says veteran dog trainer Sue Sternberg. "There is something that you as a human feel grateful for, and the dog somehow, I think, feels grateful too."
The key, says Sternberg — who runs her own shelter in upstate New York and has written the popular Successful Dog Adoption, a step-by-step guide — is "picking the dog that’s going to fit with you and your lifestyle the best, and whatever dog that is, they’re out there and available for adoption."
So how do you do it? Here are their Top 10 tips for adopting a dog succesfully:
1. Consider your lifestyle. This is the single most important factor in determining what kind of dog will match you or your family the best, says Saunders. How much time do you have to spend with a dog – are you a busy, single person with an active social life, or are you a homebody with tons of time to give to your dog? a"All kinds of lifestyles can accommodate a dog, but there’s a huge difference between adopting a puppy who’s not housetrained and needs lots of exercise versus a more senior pet who’s more willing to hang out and sleep while you’re out," she says. Consider energy levels, size and, of course, expense. Food, grooming and routine veterinary care, as well as emergencies, all add up. Also important to note: Some dogs are easier to train than others. "Terriers are known for being tenacious and stubborn," says Saunders. "For a brand-new pet parent with no dog experience, that can be a challenge. They might want to stick to a dog that doesn’t have as challenging a temperament." 
2. Consider your children. For families with kids under 7 Sternberg strongly recommends having a professional trainer accompany you to help pick out a dog "with the right temperament" at a shelter or rescue group . She notes that children between the ages of 2 and 7 are the largest population to suffer dog bites.
3. Choose a shelter wisely. Ideally, you'll want time and space to interact with a dog you're considering taking home, says Sternberg. Visit your local shelters or animal rescue group, and try not to judge a facility from its exterior or discriminate between a "no-kill" shelter that doesn't euthanize any dogs and a city shelter with a euthanasia policy. "One shelter's euthanasia number is everyone's euthanasia number," says Sternberg. Be sure to walk around and look in every kennel. "Even if you think you've fallen in love with a dog in cage number four, walk all the way to the back to cage number 40," says Sternberg. 
4. Assess a dog's temperament and sociability. A dog who looks back at you with "soft, blinking eyes, low, wagging tail, a relaxed forehead, ears back and a spine that is not rigid" is a friendly dog, says Sternberg. Another test: Closing your hand into a loose fist, offer the back of your knuckles to the dog at the height of his head and move your fist in a little square, about 4 inches in each direction. Hold your fist about two seconds at each point. "The most friendliest dogs will nuzzle or lick your knuckles at three out of the four corners of the square," says Sternberg. "The most likely to be problematic are dogs that don’t come to your fist at all or come to your fist and sniff and jump away." Still, be sure to ask about the dog's history and behavior. 
5. Pet proof your home. Look at your space from a dog’s vantage point and remove wires, electrical cords, shoes and kids’ toys. "Puppies will grab, chew and try to destroy anything it comes across," says Saunders. Remember that big dogs can get onto countertops, and if you plan to let your dogs into a yard, make sure it's fully enclosed and that your dog can't dig his way out.
6. Stock up on basic supplies. Make sure to have food and water bowls, leash and collar, and a carrier if you are bringing home a small dog. "It's also very important to have an ID tag on your new pet’s collar with your information," advises Saunders. "Even if you haven’t decided your pet’s name yet, have your name and phone number on the tag." Find out what your dog was fed at the shelter or rescue home. "You’ll want to start with that food and transition to another food slowly, if that’s your plan, to avoid any stomach upset," says Saunders. Have toys, such as a Kong, and treats on hand, as well as cleaning supplies. Nature's Miracle is an odor-neutralizing cleanser that will remove the smell from any accidents the dog has in the house.
7. Adopt your dog at the beginning of a weekend or take some time off work. Spend time with your new pal when you first bring him home. If you’re going to be a working pet parent, try to take a day off, says Saunders. During those first few days, put your dog in the part of the house where he will stay while you are at work and, as a test, practice leaving for a short period and returning. This will help get your dog get accustomed to seeing you go and knowing that you will always come back. 
8. Schedule a visit to a veterinarian. Shelters and rescue groups often have documentation about the veterinary care your dog has already received, including vaccinations, says Saunders. Still, it’s important for your dog to establish a relationship with a vet and get a basic assessment.
9. Bond with your dog. "It makes for a much more enjoyable relationship with your dog," says Saunders. Playing with your dog and doing training exercises at home using treats is a great way to get to know your pup. As for where your new pal should sleep, dogs are pack animals, she says, so snoozing near a family member, either in a crate or dog bed, is ideal. "It’s also okay to allow a dog to sleep on your bed," she says.
10. Train your dog and don't dwell on the past. You want a good dog citizen, one who has been trained to have basic manners. If your dog should start to misbehave, resist the urge to tell everyone around you that he's a rescue and was probably abused. "It’s not an excuse," says Sternberg. "Once the dog is in your home, he’s not dwelling on his background. If your dog is aggressive or barking or frightened, it is not a reason to feel sorry for the dog — that's not helpful to anyone. It is our job to confidently, and in the best way we know how, try to modify their behavior and train them to do the things we would like them to do." The Association of Pet Dog Trainers is a great resource for locating a professional dog trainer if you need one.
Finally, have patience. You may not find the right companion at the first shelter you visit, and the process of applying to adopt a dog from a rescue group may be a slow one. But take heart: As many dog owners who have adopted their pets will tell you, they ended up with the perfect dog for them, as if dog and human were meant to be. (This writer included.) "How can you describe it?" says Sternberg. "There's no other relationship like it. You just look at 'em on the couch and you're moved to tears about how much you love them." 

Help put an end to Puppy Mills... 

 In the U.S.A, there are hundreds of commercial dog breeding operations, also known as puppy mills, where the proper healthcare and basic needs of the dogs become neglected and instead, profit for the breeder takes highest priority.
            A puppy mill is defined as “a large-scale breeding operation that produces large numbers of puppies for profit.” Puppy mills are places where hundred (and sometimes thousands) of dogs are confined into wire small cages and are left in filthy, dangerous conditions without enough healthy food or water, no veterinary care, inadequate shelter, and no human contact. They spend their entire lives in these cages. The females in these kennels are repeatedly bred at least once a year, if not more, until they can no longer breed. When dogs can no longer breed, they are brutally killed. Puppy mill breeders will cut-back on veterinary care and decent food for the dogs in order to keep as much money as they can for themselves. 
            Without the proper socialization skills puppies need to make good, happy pets, they develop antisocial behavior and become emotional and financial burdens on the customers who spend thousands of dollars on a dog they know nothing about. Puppy mill dogs are not always pure bred like the breeders and sellers might claim. AKC (American Kennel Club) documents are easily falsified or not provided at all, and even if they are, they do not provide necessary information about the dog. Any dog can be licensed with the AKC and their registry does not ensure the health or genetics of the dogs. Unwanted dogs are often left at the door of over-crowded shelters and euthanized.
            The success of a puppy mill relies on unsuspecting customers who buy dogs through the Internet or from pet shops. Many people would automatically want to save the puppy they see online or in the pet shop. Buying this puppy only means that their parents, and millions like them will continue to be trapped in the hellish conditions of a puppy mill. As long as the breeders and sellers make a profit, no matter what the buyer’s motivation, the torture of the dogs will continue. 
            The only way to stop puppy mills is through adoption from community shelters and rescue groups. When sales of dogs from the Internet and pet stores drop, the demand for them decreases and eventually puts the puppy mills out of business. Adoption is the only solution to ending this problem. 
Written by Alexis Laube (one of our groomers here at "all about the DOGue" salon & spa)

Spring is in the air... and so is the smell of skunk!...  

We are seeing a rising number of skunked dogs coming into the salon for "de-skunking" treatment. Unfortunately most victims are assulted in the early evening or middle of the night. Be prepared with the following ingredience for this receipe in case this happens to your pup. Keep in mind every dog is different when it comes to the length of time it takes to rid the coat of the smell. 
1 -Quart 3% hydrogen peroxide*
1/4 cup -baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)*
1 tsp -liquid soap or dish detergent (preferably DAWN Original)* 
1 pair of latex gloves
Mix these together and bathe (shampoo in or rub down) the spray victim throughly.
Be sure to use this mixture immediately after it is created, as it is unstable*
Rinse with tap water afterward, and repeat if necessary
For spray in the eyes, flush with water as soon as possible. 

Clean + Green De-Skunk Coat Cleaner is also a great odor remover that is both safe and enviormentally friendly. 
Safe for treating the home as well as the pet!

*Skunk spray is mainly composed of low molecular weight thiol compounds. ("Thiols" are compounds with the "-SH radical" attached to a carbon atom.) In industrial applications, alkaline hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is used for scrubbing similar compounds from waste gas streams. Hydrogen peroxide and baking soda, when combined, become a "chemical engine" for churning out oxygen. That's why it has to be used immediately after mixing. The soap breaks up the oils in the skunk spray, allowing the other ingredients to do their work.